Restaurant critic Hannah Goldfield in a column for The New Yorker magazine, told about the cafe with Russian cuisine that surprised her.
The American admitted that she was impressed by the dumplings. According to the critic, this dish has both an unusual taste and shape: Goldfield even compared the dumplings with honeycombs in her review.
“I ordered two portions of dumplings. <…> I thought that it should have been enough for several meals, but after taking the first bite, I realized how wrong I was. The portion with tender minced pork and grated onions was lightly smeared with sour cream (a relative of our creme fraiche) and sprinkled with freshly ground pepper and parsley,” Goldfield shared her impressions.
One of the restaurant’s hostesses told a critic that she had not immediately tasted Russian cuisine. According to the woman, the passion for food came to her after she tried beef tongue jelly and pickled herring. The owner of the cafe said that these dishes seemed to her “mind-blowing.”
“Among her friends, a real sensation was made by the chicken of tobacco in Georgian and caviar on black bread,” the critic added. Goldfield stressed that the emergence of restaurants with Russian cuisine helps Americans get acquainted with the traditions of other countries and fight prejudice.